Ceylon Tea: The Legacy and Excellence of Sri Lankan Tea

Known worldwide for its superior taste and aroma, Ceylon Tea has established itself as a hallmark of quality. Sri Lanka, once a British colony named Ceylon, is the largest producer of orthodox tea globally. Today, it stands as the fourth largest tea producer in the world and the third-largest exporter of tea. The country’s tea industry adheres to high standards, including ISO 3720, and its growers follow Good Agricultural Practices (GAP) and Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP), ensuring that the tea is produced with the utmost care for both social and environmental welfare.

The Origins of Ceylon Tea

The story of Ceylon Tea is intertwined with the history of the island's agriculture. While Sri Lanka was still a British colony, coffee was the dominant crop in the 19th century. British Governor Sir Henry George Ward supported large-scale coffee cultivation in the central highlands. This initiative led to the development of infrastructure such as roads, which made it easier for coffee to reach markets, particularly in England.

However, in the 1870s, coffee crops were devastated by a fungal disease called coffee rust, which ruined many plantations. This catastrophe led to the exploration of alternative crops like cocoa and cinchona, though both faced their own challenges. As a result, by the late 19th century, many coffee planters transitioned to growing tea instead.

Tea had been introduced to Ceylon in the early 19th century. In 1824, a tea plant was brought from China and planted in the Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya for experimental purposes. More plants were brought from India in the 1830s. However, it was James Taylor, a young British man, who is credited with starting the island’s first successful tea plantation. In 1867, he established the Loolecondera Estate in Kandy, where he began cultivating tea. By 1873, the first shipment of Ceylon Tea reached London, marking the official beginning of Ceylon’s rise as a leading tea producer.

The Rise of Ceylon Tea Production

In the late 19th century, as coffee plantations were converted to tea estates, the production of tea in Sri Lanka grew rapidly. By 1888, tea cultivation surpassed that of coffee, and by the turn of the century, over 400,000 acres were dedicated to tea production. The development of tea processing technology, such as the invention of the "Sirocco" tea drier and the first tea rolling machine, helped accelerate the growth of the industry.

The early tea plantations in Sri Lanka were managed by British planters, but locals, such as Charles Henry de Soysa and Henry Randolph Trafford, also became involved in the tea trade. By the late 1880s, tea was firmly established as the island’s main agricultural export.

Tea Auctions and International Recognition

Tea from Ceylon gained international attention in the 19th century. The first public tea auction in Colombo was held in 1883, and Ceylon tea began to be sold worldwide. The first international recognition came at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893, where one million tea packets were sold. This event showcased the growing popularity of Ceylon Tea, which was known for its excellent quality.

The establishment of the Ceylon Tea Traders Association in 1894 helped organize the tea trade, and by 1925, Sri Lanka had a dedicated Tea Research Institute. This institute worked to improve tea quality and maximize yields.

During the 20th century, the Sri Lankan tea industry faced new challenges. In 1971, the government nationalized many tea estates, and in the following decades, land reforms were implemented. These changes led to the formation of various organizations, including the Sri Lanka Tea Board in 1976, to oversee the industry.

Despite these challenges, Ceylon Tea remained a global symbol of quality. In the 1980s, Sri Lanka showcased its tea at major events like the Moscow Summer Olympics (1980) and the Commonwealth Games in Brisbane (1982). Tea exports continued to grow, and in the 1990s, Sri Lanka became a major supplier of both traditional black tea and green tea.

The Influence of Geography on Tea Production

Sri Lanka’s diverse climate and topography have a significant impact on the quality and flavor of its tea. There are three main regions where tea is grown: Low Grown, Mid Grown, and High Grown. Each region’s unique conditions influence the tea’s characteristics, such as its flavor, aroma, and color.

• Low Grown Teas: These are grown at elevations below 600 meters (about 2,000 feet) and are characterized by long periods of sunshine and warmer, moist conditions. These teas tend to have a darker color and a stronger, maltier taste.

• Mid Grown Teas: Grown at elevations between 600 and 1,200 meters (about 2,000 to 4,000 feet), these teas exhibit a more balanced flavor. The climate in these areas produces teas with a full-bodied flavor, often with floral or citrus notes.

• High Grown Teas: Grown above 1,200 meters (about 4,000 feet), these teas have a lighter, more delicate flavor. The cooler temperatures and higher altitude result in teas with greenish hues and floral, grassy tones.

Regional Variations and Tea Characteristics

Sri Lanka’s tea-growing regions are further divided into distinct districts, each with its own unique characteristics. Some of the most famous regions are:

1. Nuwara Eliya: Known for its high-altitude estates, this district produces the lightest and most fragrant teas, with a golden color and a delicate flavor. Teas from this region are highly prized for their quality.

2. Dimbula: Located between Nuwara Eliya and Horton Plains, Dimbula teas are known for their mellow flavor and bright orange infusion. These teas are often described as refreshing and have a slightly floral aroma.

3. Uva: Exposed to both northeast and southwest monsoons, Uva teas are aromatic and smooth. The unique climatic conditions in this district contribute to their distinctive taste, making them easily recognizable.

4. Uda Pussellawa: Neighboring Nuwara Eliya, Uda Pussellawa produces teas with a stronger flavor and a pinkish hue. These teas have a tangy profile and a medium body.

5. Kandy: The Kandy district, where tea production began, produces flavorful teas that vary depending on the altitude and shelter from monsoon winds. Kandy teas are known for their strong, full-bodied flavor.

6. Ruhuna: Grown in the lowlands, Ruhuna teas have a rich, full flavor and are distinct for their long, beautiful leaves. These teas are prized for their strong, bold taste.

7. Sabaragamuwa: This large district produces teas with a dark yellow-brown color and a sweet caramel aroma. The flavor is strong but smooth, and the teas from Sabaragamuwa are often compared to those of Ruhuna.

The History and Evolution of the Colombo Tea Auction

The Colombo Tea Auction, a key event in the global tea market, has a rich history that began on July 30, 1883. The first auction was held in the office of Somerville & Co. on Queen Street, now known as Janadhipathi Mawatha. Before the auction system was established in Colombo, Ceylon's tea producers would ship their products to the London Tea Auction or directly to international buyers. The inaugural auction in Colombo was modest, with only one lot of Kabaragala tea selling for 45 cents per pound. The remaining lots were unsold, either due to a lack of bids or prices that didn't meet expectations.

Despite this early setback, Somerville & Co. and other brokers continued their efforts, and by 1885, the Colombo Tea Auction became a regular event. The establishment of the Colombo Tea Traders’ Association (CTTA) in 1894 helped formalize the auction process, setting guidelines for the conduct of the market. This association aimed to support the mutual interests of both buyers and sellers in Colombo’s tea industry.

Over time, the Colombo Tea Auction grew into the world’s largest tea auction by the number of lots sold, although Mombasa in Kenya surpassed it in terms of tea volume traded. The auction’s format also evolved to accommodate the growing demand for tea. Initially held once a week in a single room, the number of lots sold necessitated a change. As demand grew, the auction was extended to two days a week, and eventually, two rooms in the Colombo Chamber of Commerce (CCC) building were used to handle the overflow. Today, the auction takes place in three auction rooms on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, allowing for the sale of around 12,000 different lots each week.

In recent years, the tea industry has faced new challenges, including the COVID-19 pandemic, which disrupted the traditional outcry system of the auction. In response, the Colombo Tea Traders' Association, in collaboration with the Colombo Brokers' Association (CBA) and CICRA Holdings, quickly transitioned to a digital platform. This shift ensured the continuation of the tea trade, even as the world dealt with health restrictions. Despite initial hurdles, including the need for training and multiple mock runs, the industry embraced this digital transformation. By April 2020, the first online auction was held, which continued to be conducted electronically, significantly improving efficiency and accessibility for both buyers and sellers.

Tea Tasting: The Art of Evaluating Tea Quality

Tea tasting is an essential skill for determining the quality of tea before it reaches the market. Much like wine tasting, tea tasting involves several steps: visual inspection, smelling, tasting, and feeling the texture. The process begins by examining the dry tea leaves. Fresh tea leaves are usually springy and not prone to crumbling, while older leaves may be more brittle.

The role of the tea taster is to assess the quality and character of the tea. Tasting involves analyzing the tea’s aroma, flavor, and body, which can vary greatly depending on factors like climate, region, and the method of processing. A tea taster might evaluate several hundred tea samples in a single day, drawing on their experience and knowledge of specific tea estates.

During the tasting, the taster will brew the tea for a recommended amount of time (3-5 minutes for black tea) using boiling water. Green tea, on the other hand, is brewed at lower temperatures, usually below 90°C, for less than three minutes. The taster uses a large spoon to slurp the tea, ensuring that both the tea and oxygen reach all parts of the taste receptors, providing a fuller flavor profile.

Taste is not limited to the tongue; other parts of the mouth also play a role in evaluating the tea’s flavor. There are four primary taste sensations: salty, sour, sweet, and bitter. Sweetness is detected at the tip of the tongue, while bitterness is felt at the back. Sourness is felt on the back edges, and stringency is a sensation experienced on the gums or the cheeks.

The overall quality of the tea is evaluated by looking at factors like the infusion’s color, aroma, and the evenness of the infused leaves. The taster will note whether the tea has any undesirable qualities, such as a musty odor, or whether it has a smooth, pleasant finish.

Tea Tasting Terminology

To communicate the nuances of different teas, the industry has developed a specialized vocabulary for describing various attributes of the tea, both in its dry form and once it is brewed.

Terms for Dry Tea Leaves:

• Black: A desirable, dark appearance.

• Curly: Used to describe whole-leaf grades of tea, as opposed to “wiry” leaves.

• Flaky: Tea leaves that are light and flat.

• Neat: Well-made tea with a consistent size and good shape.

• Powdery: Very fine, light dust.

• Stalk & Fibre: These should be minimal in high-quality teas, but are more common in lower grades.

Terms for Infused Leaves:

• Aroma: The natural scent of the tea, often linked to teas grown at higher altitudes.

• Coppery: Bright leaves that indicate a well-processed tea.

• Dull: A lackluster color, often indicating lower-quality tea.

Terms for Liquor (the brewed tea):

• Brisk: A fresh, lively flavor.

• Body: The fullness and strength of the tea.

• Earthy: A flavor that may be caused by damp storage or certain climatic conditions.

• Pungent: A strong, astringent flavor profile with a balance of briskness and brightness.

The Importance of Tea Grades

Tea grading is essential for differentiating between the various types of tea, especially given the wide variety of leaves and processes involved in tea production. There are two main types of tea grades: orthodox and CTC (Cut, Tear, Curl). Orthodox teas are known for their whole-leaf structure and include categories like Orange Pekoe (OP) and Flowery Broken Orange Pekoe (FBOP). These grades are generally more complex in flavor and aroma. CTC teas, which include Pekoe Dust (PD) and Pekoe Fannings (PF1), are more uniform in appearance and are often used in tea bags for their stronger, quicker-brewing qualities.

Another important distinction is the grading of white tea, which includes delicate leaves such as Silver Tips and Golden Tips. These teas are often prized for their subtle flavors and lightness.

The Health Benefits of Tea

Tea has long been believed to offer numerous health benefits, and modern science has started to confirm many of these claims. Both black and green teas are made from the same plant, Camellia sinensis, but they are processed differently, resulting in distinct flavors and nutritional properties.

One of the most significant health benefits of tea is its high concentration of polyphenols, antioxidants that help protect cells from damage and may reduce the risk of certain cancers. In particular, green tea contains catechins, which are potent antioxidants that have been shown to have various health benefits, including cancer prevention. Studies suggest that regular tea drinkers may have a reduced risk of developing cancers of the skin, lungs, colon, and prostate.

Tea is also linked to a lower risk of heart disease. Epidemiological studies show that tea drinkers have a reduced risk of stroke and heart disease, with some studies suggesting that drinking three cups of tea per day could lower the risk of heart attack by 11%.

In addition to its cardiovascular benefits, tea has been shown to promote oral health by reducing harmful bacteria in the mouth and contributing to fluoride intake, which helps prevent tooth decay. Tea also aids in digestion, as it can promote the growth of beneficial gut bacteria while reducing harmful microorganisms.

Furthermore, brain health may benefit from regular tea consumption. Some studies have suggested that drinking tea could lower the risk of neurodegenerative diseases like Parkinson’s.

While research continues, the existing evidence suggests that incorporating tea into your daily routine can contribute to improved overall health. However, it's essential to maintain other healthy lifestyle habits in conjunction with drinking tea to achieve the best results.

The Legacy of Ceylon Tea

The reputation of Ceylon Tea has remained strong through the years. Despite changes in the political and economic landscape, Sri Lanka’s commitment to quality tea production has helped the country maintain its position as one of the world’s leading tea exporters.

Today, the name "Ceylon Tea" is still a trusted symbol of excellence, cherished by tea lovers around the world. Whether grown in the high hills of Nuwara Eliya or the warm plains of Ruhuna, the diverse flavors of Ceylon Tea continue to be celebrated for their unique qualities and rich history.

Whether for its historical significance, the artistry of tea tasting, its health benefits, or its role in the global economy, tea remains an essential part of Sri Lankan culture and continues to evolve to meet the demands of the modern world.