The historic city of Kandy, nestled in the central highlands of Sri Lanka, is a treasure trove of culture and history. From 1592 to 1815, Kandy served as the capital of the Sinhalese kings, remaining independent despite repeated invasions by the Portuguese, Dutch, and British, thanks to its rugged mountain terrain and strategic location. Today, Kandy is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic as its crowning jewel.
The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic: A Center of Buddhist Reverence
The Sri Dalada Maligawa, or Temple of the Tooth Relic, is Kandy's most iconic landmark. Situated within the royal palace complex, this revered shrine houses one of the Buddha's sacred tooth relics, which holds immense significance for Buddhists worldwide. The other surviving relic is enshrined in the Somawathi Chethiya stupa.
A Shrine Built by Kings
The origins of the temple trace back to King Wimaladharmasuriya I, who ruled from 1592 to 1603. After relocating the sacred tooth relic from Delgamuwa Rajamaha Viharaya in Sabaragamuwa, he constructed a two-storied temple to honor it. Although this structure no longer exists, subsequent rulers continued to preserve and enhance the temple.
Wimaladharmasuriya II, who ruled from 1686 to 1706, expanded the temple into a three-storied structure. Later, his son, King Weeraparakrama Narendrasinha (1706–1738), replaced the decayed temple with a two-storied building. The last king of Sri Lanka, Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe (1797–1814), added the distinctive octagonal structure known as the "Pattirippuwa," originally part of the royal palace. The Pattirippuwa, now a temple annex, houses ancient ola-leaf manuscripts and serves as a reminder of the temple's royal origins.
Architectural Marvels of the Temple
Visitors enter the temple through the "Maha Vahalkada," a grand gateway flanked by two intricately designed walls. The outer wall, called "Walakulu Bamma" (Cloud Wall), resembles drifting clouds, while the inner "Diyareli Bamma" (Ripple Wall) mimics flowing water. These walls feature small niches designed to hold oil lamps, illuminating the temple at night.
Beyond the gateway lies the "Makara Thorana" (Dragon Arch), leading to a tunnel called "Ambarawa." From there, visitors reach the temple's ground floor, known as the "Palle Maluwa." This area houses the "Hevisi Mandapaya" (Drummers' Courtyard), where daily rituals and ceremonies take place. The sacred tooth relic itself is enshrined on the upper floor in the "Vadahitina Maligawa," a chamber adorned with gold, silver, and ivory. The relic is encased in seven gilded caskets studded with precious stones, a testament to centuries of devotion.
The Tooth Relic and its Significance
One of the few people to have seen the tooth relic was John Davy, a British author and traveler. In 1817, he described the relic as yellowish-brown and enshrined within a series of gold caskets encrusted with emeralds, diamonds, and rubies. Each layer of these ornately decorated caskets emphasizes the relic's spiritual and cultural significance.
Near the relic chamber, visitors can see the "Perahara Karanduwa," a special casket used during the annual Esala Perahera festival, displayed behind bulletproof glass. Above the chamber hangs a golden lotus flower encrusted with gemstones, further accentuating the temple's grandeur.
The Temple’s Guardian Tusker: Raja
Adjacent to the temple is a museum housing the taxidermied remains of Raja, a celebrated elephant who carried the sacred tooth relic during the Esala Perahera for over 50 years. Captured in 1925 and donated to the temple in 1937, Raja was declared a national treasure in 1984, one of only two elephants in Sri Lankan history to receive this honor. After his passing in 1988, Raja was preserved to commemorate his service.
Exploring the Nearby National Museum
Next to the Temple of the Tooth is the Kandy National Museum, housed in a former royal building once used by the king's consorts. This museum showcases artifacts from Sri Lanka's Kandyan era, including thrones, ceremonial swords, and scepters. Notably, it was here in 1815 that the Kandyan chiefs formally ceded sovereignty to the British.
Tragedy and Resilience: The 1998 LTTE Attack
On January 25, 1998, the temple suffered a devastating attack by the LTTE, a separatist group. A truck bomb explosion claimed the lives of eight people and caused significant damage to the temple complex, including nearby shrines and St. Paul's Church. Remarkably, the sacred tooth relic remained unharmed. The attack, which targeted a site of immense religious and cultural importance, marked a tragic moment in Sri Lanka's history.
Guidelines for Visitors
When visiting the Temple of the Tooth Relic, it is essential to show respect for its sacredness. Here are some key guidelines:
Dress Modestly: Wear clothing that covers your legs and shoulders. If needed, sarongs are available to borrow at the entrance.
Remove Shoes and Hats: Footwear and headwear must be removed before entering. A designated area is provided for shoe storage, and a small donation is appreciated.
Opt for Light-Colored Clothing: White or cream-colored attire is considered most appropriate.
Maintain Quiet: Respect the worshippers by keeping noise to a minimum.
Temple Hours: The temple is open daily from 5:30 AM to 8:00 PM.
Reaching Kandy
Kandy is accessible via multiple routes:
From Colombo: Choose between the scenic yet busy Old Colombo-Kandy Road or the faster Central Expressway. The journey takes about 3 to 3.5 hours.
From Nuwara Eliya: The 100-kilometer route via Walapane and Raja Mawatha offers breathtaking views, with a travel time of approximately 3 hours.
Conclusion
The Temple of the Tooth Relic stands as a beacon of Sri Lanka's cultural and spiritual identity. Its blend of architectural splendor, historical significance, and deep reverence makes it a must-visit destination for anyone exploring the island. Whether you come to witness the beauty of its rituals, delve into its rich history, or simply marvel at its timeless artistry, a visit to this sacred site will leave a lasting impression on your soul.